Sri Lankan food is not for the timid eater: the fiery curries, sweet caramelized onion in seeni sambal (onion relish), and sour lime pickle are all dominant, powerful flavors that startle awake senses dulled by the thick, hot island air. While visitors to the island—or those eating in Sri Lankan restaurants outside the country—may find watered-down versions, most Sri Lankan cooking is unapologetic, punch-you-in-the-face, get-the-adrenaline-pumping flavored.

Rice is an ever-present antidote to these big flavors. A meal in Sri Lanka is called “rice and curry”—a term that’s almost synonymous with food in general. There’s rice, of course, and usually a curry with a thin broth and large chunks of the featured protein (beef, pork, fish, goat, and on from there), plus an assortment of side dishes—anywhere from four to nine or ten, depending on the time and place. For a quicker bite, there are “short eats,” a Sri Lankan term essentially denoting snacks—often a coconut roti with hot sauce, a newspaper cone of fried spiced chickpeas, or maybe a samosa.